Upcycling textile waste in Ladakh

What happens to textile waste in Ladakh

Textile waste does not feature commonly in discussions on waste management, especially since textile waste is less visible compared to plastic waste. Textile waste typically includes pre-consumer textiles like cuttings from garment factories and scraps from tailors, as well as post-consumer textiles like discarded clothing.

While Ladakh does not have any garment factories, it has numerous tailor shops that together generate a large amount of textile waste. Unfortunately, all that waste is either incinerated or burnt in the open and pollute the environment. In sum, there is no solution for managing textile waste, and it is largely perceived as worthless. However, in a cold region of Ladakh, much of the textile waste constitutes of high-quality, warm, and durable fabrics that could be repurposed and given a second life.

Why care about textile waste

Textiles, whether they are made from organic or synthetic materials, are produced at a high environmental cost. The production process demands resources and energy while generating significant waste at every stage. Synthetic fabrics such as polyester, nylon, rayon, spandex and acrylic, are derived from petroleum so they are essentially plastics. On the other hand, organic fabrics consume resources such as soil, water and nutrients. A striking example is the production of a single white cotton t-shirt, which requires a staggering 2,700 litres of water. Additionally, the bleaching, colouring and fortifying yarns for both organic and synthetic textiles involves chemicals that contain heavy metals like lead. Therefore, textile waste isn't just a pile of discarded materials, its represents a loss of precious and scarce resources.

Fabrics like velvet, tweed, and wool are found in the commonly found in the textile waste in Ladakh

How we upcycle at Zero Waste Ladakh

At Zero Waste Ladakh, we've established a grassroots system to save textile waste while also creating social and economic benefits for the local community. Our approach involves several key steps: (1) collecting fabric scraps from tailor shops, (2) sorting the fabrics, (3) designing product prototypes, (4) providing sewing training to local self-help groups, and (5) involving these groups in creating and marketing upcycled products.

We start by identifying tailor shops and raising awareness about how to properly store textile waste without mixing it with other trash. Once a tailor shop has accumulated enough textile waste, they contact us to schedule a collection. The collected fabrics are then sorted into various categories based on quality, colour, and size—a process that is both time-consuming and labor-intensive. We create prototype designs based on the types of fabrics gathered. Some of our most popular items include tote bags, pouches, cushion covers, coasters, and aprons.

We offer sewing training to self-help groups, focusing on skill development through our workshops. Our comprehensive 8-week tailoring course covers the basics of sewing, understanding fabric compositions, as well as the essentials of sewing machine repair and maintenance. Participants have the opportunity to use sewing machines for a year after completing the workshop, allowing them to create products from waste materials. Throughout this period, we continue to provide support by guiding them in product development and helping them identify fair markets for selling their creations. Additionally, we promote and market the upcycled products through social media and our website. We showcase the items at exhibitions, fulfil bulk orders, and are always on the lookout for new opportunities to broaden our audience.

Sorting textile waste according to quality, colour and size

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Skill development workshops for local self-help groups

Marketing upcycled products in exhibitions (left) and fulfilling bulk orders (right)

Challenges in upcycling textile waste

Working with textile waste presents several challenges that are just as important to highlight as the work itself. First off, collecting fabric waste can be quite tricky. Most tailor shops are located in hard-to-reach areas, often tucked away in narrow lanes or situated on upper floors. Extracting large sacks of fabric, sometimes weighing up to 25 kilograms, requires considerable effort.

Additionally, many tailors tend to forget or neglect to inform us when they have waste available, opting instead to dispose of it themselves. Unfortunately, this means we miss out on valuable raw materials. In the winter months, we face another hurdle: several tailors resort to burning leftover fabrics for heat rather than handing them over to us.

Segregating the collected fabric waste isn't without its challenges either. Along with usable fabrics, we often encounter dirty or hazardous items, such as tobacco sachets, cigarette butts, blades, and needles. Careful handling is essential to avoid these dangerous objects during the sorting process.

When it comes to skill training, a major issue is the lack of resources, including sewing machines, accessories, and adequate space for workshops. Promoting and marketing upcycled products also proves to be difficult, as there is very little demand for them. Most people still prefer purchasing new, company-manufactured products over handmade, second-hand, or recycled options.

Upcycled items made from local tailor scraps

Conclusion

In conclusion, upcycling textile waste involves creating a comprehensive chain that includes collection, segregation, upcycling, and marketing. Each link in this chain requires specific interventions supported by adequate resources. Collection needs workforce and transportation, segregation requires sufficient space and understanding of textile materials, upcycling depends on skilled labour, and marketing requires networking and platforms. Drawing from our experience, we believe that this grassroots initiative holds great potential to evolve into a local, women-led, small-scale upcycling enterprise. This initiative would not only contribute to environmental sustainability but also generate social and economic value for these remote mountain communities.